Pehoe Lake in Torres del Paine Chile

Lago Pehoe Torres del Paine

Pehoe Lake in Chile

Lago Pehoe is the star of Torres del Paine's luminous lakes, its milky turquoise waters setting off the mad jagged peaks of the Paine Massif. It's also the easiest to get to, with an eastern shore flanked by the road from Puerto Natales. Not surprisingly, three lakeshore hotels compete for the Best View.

In the west corner is Refugio Paine Grande, the least attractive of the three. Still, views east are pretty good, although they miss out on the best of the Paine Massif, which is to the north.

In the East Corner is the swish Explora Hotel Salto Chico, slap bang in front of the Paine Massif, and nearby, the low-key Hosteria Pehoe. Only 1.6km apart, their views are similar, but their prices miles apart.

Paine Grande Mountain Lodge
Grande is the word. The rustic Refugio Pehoe has been replaced by this massive hotel/refugio. It tends to attract day trippers rather than the hard-core hiking crowd, although it is at the start of the Torres del Paine W. A Catamaran ships them in three times a day (9am, 12 noon and 6pm, US$32 return, US$20 one way, reservations not required). The trip starts at Pudeto and takes about 30 minutes.

Paine Grande Moutain Lodge is run by Vertice Patagonia.

The Lodge is very well equipped considering its location. Facilities include shared rooms, hot showers, a restaurant, a bar, tent and sleeping bag hire and even internet access and telephones.

If you're hiking, the Lodge is 7.6km (2.5 hours) from Camp Italian in the French Valley and 11km (3.5 hours) from the Grey Glacier Lookout.

Rates
Bed only from US$39. Full board from US$73
(not including sheets, duvets or sleeping bags)
Campsite US$6
Tent hire (two man) US$13
Sleeping bag hire US$9

Hoteria Pehoe
This island hotel has 45 basic ensuite rooms, most with jaw-dropping views of the Paine Massif. Access is via a long wooden bridge.

Rates
Standard rooms from: single: US$171, double: $187, triple: $236 and Superior rooms from: single: US$187, double US$161 and triple: $268

Explora Hotel Salto Chico
While Explora's views of the Paine Massif are not that different from Pehoe's, it does also have a view of Salto Chico Waterfall. Inside, it's all natural materials, soft colors and panoramic picture windows. The hotel also has an open-air hot tub, a swimming pool and an excellent restaurant to come back to after fully inclusive day-trips into the wilderness. Riding, boat, hiking trips are some of the activities.

Rates (for minimum four-night stay including excursions)
The steep rates at Explora’s Hotel Salto Chico (www.explora.com; four nights: $1,560 to $2,688 per person, double occupancy) include exquisite meals paired with fine wines, plus excursions led by bilingual guides.

Room with view of Salto Chico Waterfall
Single: US$3,748, Double: $2660,

Room with view of the Paine Massif
Single: US$4,288, Double: US$2,920,